Safe And Effective Flea Control
by Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D.and Susan Hubble Pitcairn
by Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D.and Susan Hubble Pitcairn
Authors of Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide To Natural Health for Dogs & Cats
The best approach to controlling fleas is to start with the least toxic and most natural choices, resorting to stronger measures only if reasonable control is not achieved. As a prerequisite to any flea-control program, I recommend building up your animal's health and resistance as much as possible through a healthy diet and lifestyle. Along with that, it's important to practice thorough sanitation and cleaning.
Understanding the life cycle of the flea makes it clear why cleaning is so important. Adult fleas live about three to four months. During that time they are steadily laying tiny white eggs on your pet that look like dandruff or salt crystals. Flea eggs hatch out into larvae that live in the cracks and crevices of rugs, upholstery, blankets, floors, sand, earth, and the like.
Because these tiny larvae cannot jump or travel very far (less than an inch), they feed on the black specks of dried blood ("flea dirt") that fall off along with the eggs during grooming and scratching. After one to two weeks, the larvae go through a cocoon stage (pupa). A week or two later, they hatch out as small fleas that hop onto the nearest warm body passing by (usually your pet -- sometimes you!), bite it for a meal of blood, and then start the whole process all over again. This cycle takes anywhere from 2 to 20 weeks, depending on the temperature of the house or environment. During summer -- flea season -- the entire cycle is usually just 2 weeks long. That's why fleas increase so rapidly at that time.
The bad news is that, no matter how many adult fleas you manage to kill, numerous future fleas are developing in the environment simultaneously. The good news is that these eggs, larvae, pupa, and the flea dirt they feed upon can be sucked up by a vacuum cleaner or washed away in the laundry. And because the developing fleas are so immobile, they are most concentrated wherever your pet sleeps, so you know where to focus your efforts.
Your important ally in the battle against fleas is cleanliness, both for your pet and your home, particularly in your pet's sleeping areas. Regular cleaning interrupts the life cycles of the fleas and greatly cuts down on the number of adult fleas that end up on your pet, especially if you act before flea season begins. So start your program with these nontoxic steps.
Steam clean your carpets at the onset of flea season (or whenever you begin your flea-control program). Though it is somewhat expensive, steam cleaning is effective in killing flea eggs.
Thoroughly vacuum and clean floors and furniture at least once a week to pick up flea eggs, larvae, and pupae. Concentrate on areas where your pet sleeps and use an attachment to reach into crevices and corners and under heavy furniture. If there is a heavy infestation, you may want to put a flea collar (or part of a flea collar) in the vacuum bag to kill any adult fleas that get sucked up and might crawl away. Or else immediately dispose of the bag or its contents because it can provide a warm, moist, food-filled
environment for developing eggs and larvae. Mop vinyl floors.
Launder your pet's bedding in hot, soapy water at least once a week. Dry on maximum heat. Heat will kill all stages of flea life, including the eggs. Remember that flea eggs are very slippery and easily fall off bedding or blankets. So carefully roll bedclothes up to keep all the flea eggs contained on the way to the washing machine.
Bathe the animal with a natural flea-control shampoo. Use a nontoxic shampoo as recommended above, such as one containing d-limonene (dogs only).
Use a flea comb to trap and kill fleas that are on your pet. Most pet stores carry special fine-toothed combs that trap fleas for easy disposal. Make a regular habit of flea-combing your pet while you watch TV or talk on the phone. Depending on the degree of infestation and the time of year, this might be daily (at the onset of the flea season), weekly, or monthly.
Gently but thoroughly comb as many areas as your pet will allow, especially around the head, neck, back, and hindquarters. As you trap the little buggers, pull them off the comb and plunge them into a container of hot, soapy water (or dip the comb and pull the flea off underwater). Cover your lap with an old towel to catch extra clumps of hair and flea dirt and to wipe the comb off as you work.
When you're finished, flush the soapy water and fleas down the toilet.
If your pet goes outdoors, follow these steps as well.
Mow and water your lawn regularly. Short grass allows sunlight to penetrate and warm the soil, which kills larvae. Watering drowns the developing fleas.
Encourage ants. Perhaps I should say "do not discourage ants." They love to eat flea eggs and larvae. This is another reason not to use pesticides that kill all the insects in your yard.
"Sterilize" bare-earth sleeping spots. If your pet likes to sleep or hang out in a certain bare or sandy area, occasionally cover the spot with a heavy black plastic sheet on a hot, sunny day. Rake up any dead leaves and other debris first. The heat that builds up under the plastic does an excellent job of killing fleas and larvae. Of course, this is not appropriate to use where you want to preserve live grass or plants.
Apply agricultural lime on grassy or moist areas. This helps to dry out the fleas. Rake up any dead leaves and grassy debris first.
Along with the above steps, you might try these methods to repel fleas that may try to jump back on your pet, especially those harder-to-kill ones hanging out in the backyard.
Use an herbal flea powder. You'll find them in pet stores and natural food stores, or you can make your own. Combine one part each of as many of these powdered herbs as you can find: eucalyptus, rosemary, fennel, yellow dock, wormwood, and rue. Put this mixture in a shaker-top jar, such as a jar for parsley flakes.
Apply the flea powder sparingly to your pet's coat by brushing backward with your hand or the comb and sprinkling it into the base of the hairs, especially on the neck, back, and belly. To combat severe infestations, use several times a week. Afterward, put your animal friend outside for awhile so the disgruntled tenants vacate in the yard and not in your house. Some herbal flea powders also contain natural pyrethrins, which are not strong flea-killers but do seem to greatly discourage them.
Use an herbal flea collar. These are impregnated with insect-repellent herbal oils. Some are made to be "recharged" with the oils and used again. Buy them at natural food stores.
Try a natural skin tonic. The animal herbalist Juliette de Bairacli-Levy recommends this lemon skin tonic, which many of my clients successfully use on their pets for a general skin toner, parasite repellent, and treatment for mange.
Thinly slice a whole lemon, including the peel. Add it to 1 pint of near-boiling water and let it steep overnight. The next day, sponge the solution onto the animal's skin and let it dry. You can use this daily for severe skin problems involving fleas. It is a source of natural flea-killing substances such as d-limonene and other healing ingredients found in the whole lemon.
Add ample nutritional or brewer's yeast and garlic to the diet. Some studies show yeast supplementation significantly reduces flea numbers, though others indicate no effect. My experience with using yeast is that it has some favorable effect, particularly if the animal's health is good. You can also rub it directly into the animal's hair. Many people also praise the value of garlic as a flea repellent, though so far studies do not support this.
If these methods do not control the fleas sufficiently, take the following steps.
Get your carpets treated with a special anti-flea mineral salt. There have been some developments in safe flea control. My clients report success with a service that applies or sells relatively nontoxic mineral salts for treating carpets. (Fleabusters is the company recommended.) Effective for up to a year, the products safely kill fleas and their developing forms over a few week's time.
Once or twice a year, sprinkle natural, unrefined diatomaceous earth along walls, under furniture, and in cracks and crevices that you cannot access with a vacuum. This product, which resembles chalky rock, is really the fossilized remains of one-celled algae. Though direct skin contact is harmless to pets and people, it is bad news for many insects and their larvae, including fleas. The fine particles in the earth kill insects by attacking the waxy coating that covers their external skeletons. The insects then dry out and die.
I do not recommend using diatomaceous earth frequently or directly on your animal -- mostly because of the irritating dust that can be breathed in by both of you. It is also messy. Be careful about breathing it in. Wear a dust mask when applying. It is not toxic, but inhaling even the natural, unrefined form of this dust can irritate the nasal passages.
Important: Do not use the type of diatomaceous earth that is sold for swimming pool filters. It has been very finely ground, and the tiny particles can be breathed into the lungs and cause chronic inflammation.
Use a spray or powder containing pyrethrins or natural pyrethrum. These are the least toxic of all the insecticides used on pets, and they are found in both conventional and natural flea-control products. For a more lasting effect, use a microencapsulated product, which is perhaps labeled "slow release." Repeat the applications as you simultaneously use the carpet treatment system or diatomaceous earth. This will help kill both adult fleas and developing fleas at the same time.
Reprinted from: Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats by Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M, Ph.D., and Susan Hubble Pitcairn (September 2005;$18.95US/$25.95CAN; 1-57954-973-X) Copyright C 2005 Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D., and Susan Hubble Pitcairn. Permission granted by Rodale, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098. Available wherever books are sold or
directly from the publisher by calling (800) 848-4735 or visit their website at www.rodalestore.com
Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M, Ph.D., opened the Animal Natural Health Center, a clinic offering only holistic animal care, in 1985. Recently retired from practice, he teaches post-graduate courses in homeopathic medicine to veterinarians.
Susan Hubble Pitcairn was a major contributor to the first two editions of this book. As the third edition goes to press, she is splitting her time between artistic pursuits and the support of positive social change.
For more information, please visit www.drpitcairn.com.
You can get more info on flea remendies on this link
Flea & Tick Control
Canine Flea and Tick Combat with Herbs And Essential OilsNo matter how much of a nature lover one can be, it sure is another thing to have these critters on you and your dogs. Fleas are everywhere and though we live in a city, I still battle fleas on my German Shepherd. If your dog is allergic to fleas as our dog is, well you will need to stay sharp on your combating tactics when it comes to these bloodsuckers.
by Sevi Kay
by Sevi Kay
For those nature loving holistic people, the following recipes can be a wonderful help. Since they are all natural, they will only help repel fleas, ticks and flies etc. and must be applied more frequently as well.
Herbal Critter Repellent Mix: Dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf, marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, clove buds.
Crush your botanicals well and fill a muslin bag or use it in the cedar chip mixture of your dog’s bed. The muslin bags can be placed near your dogs bedding area.
Tick Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of Lavender, Basil, Lemon, Opponax, Eucalyptus
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary
1- 2 cups of water
Please note that this tick repellent is not for treating or curing any tick related or other diseases. Contact your dog's vet in case you are concerned about a tick bite!
Flea Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of cedarwood, lemongrass, rose geranium
1 tea spoon AVC (organic apple cider vinegar)
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs
1- 2 cups of water
Keep in mind that the effectiveness of your blend will depend on the quality of your essential oils and herbs; therefore always buy therapeutic grade essential oils and organic botanicals/herbs.
Add the essential oils and vodka in a bottle, tighten the lid and shake well. Once the mixture blended (should turn slightly white), add apple cider vinegar. If you have some herbs mentioned above you can make an herbal tea to use in your spritzer.
Boil 2-4 cups of water and remove from heat. Add your dried herbs in the water and let is simmer for 30 minutes. Once cool, drain and use instead of plain water in your spritzer. If you are using an herbal tea, this mixture must be kept in the refrigerator as the herbal teas have the tendency to go bad faster.
Once you have your spritzer you can use this by gently spraying it in to your dogs coat, legs, tummy and back. Rub it in well and apply it as necessary. Do not use any of the essential oils on your dogs face or around nose, ears and eyes. Respect the sensitive nose he/she has and go easy when using aromatic substances such as essential oils.
Check your dog often for fleas and ticks by play petting and inspecting. I always have the following handy when we are conducing an inspection.
Jar filled with rubbing alcohol.
Keep in mind that not all ticks carry a disease causing organism, and just because you had a tick bite does not mean you will get Lyme disease. Even if a tick is a carrier, its bite may not always cause the development of disease, but proper caution and care always is crucial in prevention. If you see any abnormal rashes after a tick bite, you should consult your doctor or your dog's vet immediately.
"Ticks may carry various infectious organisms that can transmit diseases to cats and dogs, including the following (listed with possible symptoms):
babesiosis: lethargy, appetite loss, weakness, pale gums
ehrlichiosis: high fever, muscle aches
Lyme disease: lameness, swollen joints, fever, poor appetite, fatigue, and vomiting (some infected animals show no symptoms)
tick paralysis in dogs: gradual paralysis, seen first as an unsteady gait from uncoordinated back legs (some infected dogs don't develop paralysis)." Dixie Farley- FDA Consumer magazine (July-August 1996)
Being hikers, we always encounter ticks and carry our tweezers and a small jar of alcohol on each trip! Use a fine-point tweezers. Never squeeze the tick’s body. Try to grab it (with your tweezers) where it's mouth-parts enter the skin and pull gently without letting go, It will eventually
releases its hold by withdrawing its barbed mouth-part from your skin.
Do not try to pull it out within seconds – proper tick removal will take time and needs patience. Keep an eye on any abnormal rashes and consult your doctor if necessary. Once you have successfully removed the tick from your skin or your pets skin, we suggest that you store it in a small jar filled with alcohol for a few days before disposing it. Good luck and stay flea & tick free!
Earth-friendly flea and tick products:
Grrroom Dog, Tel: (866) 686-3626 / (201) 854-3001, www.cybercanine.com/fleaandticks.htm
Organic & Wild Crafted Essential Oils and Hydrosols:
Appalachian Valley, 132 Walnut Street, P.O. Box 515, Friendsville, Maryland 21531,
Tel: (800) 342-6546 / (301) 746-5084, http://www.av-at.com
Cats and Aromatherapy Education
Lavender Cat, www.thelavendercat.com
Blessed Herbs, 1-800-489-HERB, http://blessedherbs.com/mainframea.html
Herbs for Pets by Mary L. Wulff-Tilford
Veterinarians Guide to Natural Remedies for Dogs : Safe and Effective Alternative Treatments and Healing Techniques from the Nations Top Holistic Veterinarians by Martin Zucker
The Practice of Aromatherapy : A Classic Compendium of Plant Medicines and Their Healing Properties by Jean Valnet
Medical Aromatherapy: Healing with Essential Oils by Kurt Schnaubelt
Today's Herbal Health: The Essential Reference Guide by Louise Tenney
NOTE: The above recipes are for dogs only. Never use aromatherapy products on cats, birds or other exotic pets and animals. Always keep essential oils away from pets, kids and store them in a cool dark place and in glass containers. Never use essential oils undiluted "neat" on skin or coat. Each dog is different so always involve your trusted veterinarian when introducing a new holistic regime as certain herbs/essential oils may cause allergic reactions however natural or organic they may be.
© 2001 by Sevi Kay - Mundo L.L.C
Sevi Kay is former chef, writer, translator and a botanical dog products formulator and the founder of Mundo, L.L.C. She has been working with herbs and essential oils on dogs for the past 6 years an holds a certificate on Aromatherapy. Sevi is also studying animal behavior and training with canine specialist and Schutzhund trainer Doreen Reinhart. Sevi and her German Shepherd Mundo can be visited at www.cybercanine.com/founderbios.